Maytag Washer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them
Maytag is part of the Whirlpool family, so many of its washer codes match Whirlpool's, but the wording on your display and the codes available depend on the model. Codes show on the control panel, and on some models the F and E halves alternate. Maytag recommends waiting about 10 minutes after a fill error before trying any functions. If a code will not clear, unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for five minutes, then reconnect and start a new cycle.
Maytag Washer Error Codes list
Slow or low fill
Common causes: Faucets partly closed, only one supply hose connected, mineral buildup on inlet screens, kinked hoses or anti-flood devices
What you can try: Open hot and cold valves fully, confirm both hoses are connected and check for kinks. Wait 10 minutes before retrying.
Call a technician if: Water supply and hoses are fine and the washer still will not fill properly.
Slow drain
Common causes: Kinked or clogged drain hose, a hose pushed more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe, a clogged pump filter on some models, or heavy suds
What you can try: Straighten the drain hose and set its depth correctly. On front-loaders with an access panel for the pump filter, clean it per the manual.
Call a technician if: Drain setup is correct and draining is still slow, which suggests a pump problem.
Off-balance load the washer could not correct
Common causes: Washing a single heavy item, adding wet items or extra water, or uneven loading
What you can try: Wait for the lid to unlock, spread the load evenly, close the lid and press Start/Pause.
Call a technician if: Normal loads keep showing uL, or the washer walks or bangs during spin.
Load out of balance
Common causes: Bulky or nonabsorbent items, or an uneven load
What you can try: Let the washer finish its correction routine. If it stops, redistribute and press Start/Pause. Use Bulky/Sheets Deep Water Wash for large items.
Call a technician if: It happens on most loads.
Lid will not lock
Common causes: Laundry under the lid or detergent buildup on the lid lock
What you can try: Check directly under the lid and clean around the lock with a damp cloth.
Call a technician if: The lid closes cleanly and still will not lock.
Lid will not unlock
Common causes: An object on top of the lid
What you can try: Remove baskets or anything else sitting on the washer.
Call a technician if: Nothing is on the lid and it stays locked.
Load too large
Common causes: Overfilled tub
What you can try: The washer drains first. Take out several items, add HE detergent and restart.
Call a technician if: Normal-size loads trigger it.
Too many suds
Common causes: Non-HE or too much detergent, or thickened liquid chlorine bleach
What you can try: Use HE detergent only and regular liquid bleach. The washer extends rinsing on its own.
Call a technician if: Suds codes continue with the right products.
Hot and cold inlet hoses reversed
Common causes: Hoses swapped during installation
What you can try: Shut off the water, swap the hoses and run a test cycle.
Call a technician if: Hoses are correct and HC persists.
Door not locking (front-load)
Common causes: An obstruction in the door or a door lock fault
What you can try: Clear the door area, close it fully, then press Pause/Cancel twice and Power once.
Call a technician if: The code returns.
Motor speed sensing error
Common causes: Shipping bolts still installed, an overloaded drum, or a motor or sensor fault
What you can try: Confirm shipping bolts were removed and reduce the load, then clear the code.
Call a technician if: It returns with a normal load.
Power failure during the cycle
Common causes: An outage or tripped breaker
What you can try: Touch and hold Start to resume, or press Power to clear.
Call a technician if: PF keeps appearing without an outage.
How to clear the code
How you clear a Maytag code depends on the washer:
- Top-load F# E# codes: press Start/Pause once to clear, then again to restart.
- Front-load F5 E2, F7 E1, F8 E1 and F8 E2: press Pause/Cancel twice, then Power once.
- Any F code that will not clear: unplug or switch off the breaker for five minutes, reconnect, reselect the cycle and press Start.
- LOC or LC on front-loaders: this is Control Lock, not a fault. Touch (or press and hold) the Control Lock button.
Off-balance codes on Maytag top-loaders
Maytag top-load washers are sensitive to how the load sits in the basket. A single rug, a pair of jeans washed alone or a waterproof mattress cover can all trigger uL or OFb. Mixing a few similar items into the load and spreading them around the basket fixes most cases.
If balanced loads still stop with uL, or the washer shakes hard enough to move, worn suspension parts are a likely cause. That repair needs the cabinet opened and is a job for a technician.
Maytag washer repair in Metro Atlanta
Mr. Fixer services Maytag top-load, front-load and heavy-duty washers across Metro Atlanta. Our Maytag appliance repair page covers the other Maytag appliances we work on. The $80 diagnostic is credited toward the repair if you go ahead.
Call (678) 866-3669 or book online.
Code still showing?
Our technicians repair Maytag washers across Metro Atlanta, usually the same day. Diagnostic from $80, credited toward your repair.
Call (678) 866-3669FAQs
Are Maytag and Whirlpool washer codes the same?
Many are, since both brands come from the same manufacturer. Codes like F8 E1, F9 E1 and LdL mean the same thing on many models of both. Your Maytag owner's manual is still the best reference for your exact washer.
What does uL mean on a Maytag washer?
uL means the load is off balance and the washer could not fix it on its own. Redistribute the load by hand, close the lid and press Start/Pause.
Why is my Maytag washer still showing a code after unplugging it?
A power reset only clears the control. If the cause is still there, such as a slow fill or a failing part, the washer detects it again and the code returns. Repeated F# E# codes need a technician.
Codes and meanings vary by model and model year. Check your owner's manual for your exact model.
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