$20 off any repair · Same-day service · Diagnostic from $80, credited toward your repair · 60-day warrantyBook online 24/7 →
Home › Error Codes › Samsung Washer Error Codes

Samsung Washer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Quick answer: Most Samsung washer codes point to a short list of problems: no water coming in (4C), water not draining (5C or nd), an unbalanced load (UE or Ub), a door that is not latched (dC or dE) or a leak or water-level fault (LE or LC). Many of them clear once you fix the cause and power-cycle the washer, but motor, heater, sensor and communication codes usually need a technician.

Samsung washers show codes on the digital display, and models without a display flash a combination of cycle or temperature lights instead. The same fault can appear under several names depending on the model and year, so 5C, 5E, nd and SE can all mean the same drain problem. The simplest reset is to turn the washer off for two to three minutes, then restart the cycle. If the code comes straight back, use the table below.

Samsung Washer Error Codes list

4C / 4E / nF

Not filling: water is not entering the washer correctly

Common causes: Closed or partly closed faucets, kinked or frozen supply hoses, clogged inlet screens, low water pressure or a failed water inlet valve

What you can try: Open both faucets fully, straighten the hoses and confirm hot goes to hot and cold to cold. Unplug the washer for one minute, then try again.

Call a technician if: The faucets are open, the hoses are clear and the washer still will not fill.

4C2 / 4E2 / nF1

Hot/cold error: hot water is reaching the cold inlet

Common causes: Supply hoses connected to the wrong inlets, common after a move or a new install

What you can try: Turn off both faucets and swap the hoses so blue is on cold and red is on hot. Samsung notes this one does not need service.

Call a technician if: The hoses are correct and the code keeps returning.

5C / 5E / nd / SE

No drain: water is not leaving the drum fast enough, or at all

Common causes: Clogged debris filter (front-load), kinked or frozen drain hose, or a failing drain pump

What you can try: Check the drain hose for kinks. On front-loaders, clean the debris filter behind the small lower access door, with towels and a shallow pan ready.

Call a technician if: The filter and hose are clear but water still sits in the drum, or you hear the pump hum without draining.

dC / dE / dS / dL

Door error: the door or lid is not closed or the latch is not locking

Common causes: Clothing caught in the door, a broken latch, or Child Lock active with water in the tub

What you can try: Open the door, clear anything in the seal and close it firmly. On some models dC means an unbalanced load, so check your manual.

Call a technician if: The door closes properly but the code stays, or the latch or strike is visibly damaged.

UE / Ub / U6

Unbalanced load: the cycle stopped because the load could not spin evenly

Common causes: A single heavy item, a bunched comforter, a small load, or a washer that is not level

What you can try: Spread the laundry out, add a few similar items to small loads, close the door and press Start. Make sure the washer sits level.

Call a technician if: Even normal, balanced loads trigger it, which can point to worn suspension parts or shock absorbers.

LE / LC / 1E / 1C

Water level or leak detected

Common causes: A leaking hose or connection, a kinked drain hose, heavy suds from non-HE detergent, or a faulty water level sensor

What you can try: Look under and behind the washer for water, check the hoses, and run an empty rinse without detergent if you see suds.

Call a technician if: You find water under the washer or the code returns with no visible suds.

OE / OC

Overflow: too much water in the drum

Common causes: An inlet valve that does not shut off, or a water level sensing problem

What you can try: Turn off the water supply and run a drain and spin. Do not keep restarting cycles.

Call a technician if: The code appears again on the next fill. An inlet valve that sticks open can flood a laundry room.

SUd / Sd / 5d

Excessive suds

Common causes: Too much detergent or detergent that is not HE

What you can try: Let the washer pause and continue on its own, then switch to the correct HE dose.

Call a technician if: Suds appear with small, correct doses, since a slow drain can also hold suds in the drum.

3E / 3C

Motor error

Common causes: An overloaded drum, a motor wiring fault, or a failing motor or motor sensor

What you can try: Remove part of the load, power the washer off for two to three minutes and restart.

Call a technician if: The code returns after the reset. Motor diagnosis needs a technician.

HE / HC / tE / tC

Heater or temperature sensor error

Common causes: A failed heating element or an open or shorted temperature sensor (front-load models with internal heaters)

What you can try: Power-cycle the washer and try a cold cycle to see whether it runs.

Call a technician if: The code returns on warm or hot cycles. Heater and sensor checks involve live wiring.

9C1 / 9E1 / UC / PF

Voltage or power error

Common causes: An extension cord, a shared or overloaded circuit, or a power outage (PF)

What you can try: Plug the washer directly into its own outlet with no extension cord or power strip.

Call a technician if: It is on its own circuit and the code still shows.

How to clear the code

  • General reset: turn the washer off, wait two to three minutes, turn it on and restart the cycle.
  • Not filling (4C / nF): Samsung suggests unplugging the washer or switching off its breaker for one minute.
  • Jammed button (E2 / bE2): with the washer off, press each button individually so none is stuck.
  • Child Lock (CL): turn the washer off and back on, or turn Child Lock off.

Codes that mean you should stop running the washer

Stop using the washer and turn off the water if you see OE or OC more than once, LE or LC with water on the floor, or a door code on a front-loader that still has water in the drum.

Motor (3E) and heater (HE) codes that survive a full power-off point to a failed part or wiring fault, and more cycles will not fix them.

Getting a Samsung washer repaired in Metro Atlanta

Mr. Fixer has repaired Samsung front-load and top-load washers across Metro Atlanta since 2017. Note the exact code and model number so our technician can bring the right parts. See our washing machine repair and Samsung appliance repair pages, or read our guide on a washer that will not drain or spin.

Call (678) 866-3669 or book online any time.

Code still showing?

Our technicians repair Samsung washers across Metro Atlanta, usually the same day. Diagnostic from $80, credited toward your repair.

Call (678) 866-3669

FAQs

Why does my Samsung washer say 4C when the water is on?

The most common reasons are a kinked supply hose, clogged inlet screens, low pressure or hoses on the wrong inlets. If the water supply checks out, the water inlet valve or its wiring may have failed and needs to be tested by a technician.

Does dC always mean a door problem on a Samsung washer?

Not always. On most models dC is a door or latch error, but Samsung notes that on some models dC means an unbalanced load. Check the code chart in your owner's manual for your model.

Can I clear a Samsung washer code by unplugging it?

Turning the washer off for two to three minutes clears many codes, and Samsung recommends a one-minute unplug for fill errors. If the code returns, the underlying problem is still there and should be diagnosed.

Codes and meanings vary by model and model year. Check your owner's manual for your exact model.

Call nowBook online